He put it back together then tells me he's replaced the pushrods as they were bent on one side then told me that the left carb was doing all the work so cleaned the other one up. It was all lies basically as he had too much work on and hadn't touched mine. He was only supposed to have it for a week.
I don't know. I'm going to write to him. He isn't touching my bus again. I will get this sorted one way or another. Just infuriates me that people out there think they can get away with this kind of Marmite! If I could make this into some sort of criminal matter I would be all over it!! Bloody fuming now.
Assuming you can prove what he's done and what was agreed, take him to court. If you don't he'll carry on doing it.
I know, that's the only reason I didn't name him in the first place as I thought I'd give him a chance to sort it but clearly he's got no morals and is just laughing at me now. I will write to him this week so he'll have a month to get back to me.
@zed, the dizzie I'm using from the Bay engine should be fine on the CU engine shouldn't it? I'm just wondering if it's something to do with the ignition module or indeed the dizzie now? Lack of power etc? Everything is set up fine, since installing the power spark module it started on the button but now it's struggling a little, then no power on accelerating? What do you think?
That was my thinking but the heat sink stuff that you have to put in under the module, how do I reinstall the module again? I'll give it ago anyway, I can always get back in touch with accuspark I suppose.
I've never used electronic ignition so I don't know what else is involved. People do go from electronic to points though so it must be doable!
Yeah it is I was just thinking that if the module isn't the problem I'd have to get some more heat sink to reinstall it. Give it a go today see what happens.
Ok so points and condenser on and it's fired up. Checked the timing and it's not definite on the 7.5 btdc but flickering between 8 and back to 6ish. If that makes sense where as before you could set it to near on exact. Throttle does appear more responsive but until I can take it out on the road I won't be able to tell.
Hope youve got it sorted , does seem like something is breaking down under load ? i assume your coil is ok too.
I haven't been able to check the coil mate, definetly under load it's failing though. Waiting for neighbour to go out so I can try and drive it.
If the distributor is held away from the block by an overtightened bent clamp you can get bouncy timing. I also had a lot of charring caused by the distributor centre lead dropping out the HT connection on the coil that made flashover more likely. And the electronic ignition might be making it produce a bit more voltage and causing flashovers. The heat sink stuff is the same as used in PCs for CPU or video card heatsinks.
Cheers I double check it I had to recheck all the lead connections, I'm thinking coil as it was arcing from the positive to the ht in the middle so wondering if that's knackered the coil? See how we go with replacement coil.
You should also check that the distributor drive is aligned correctly with no.1 on top dead. It might be why yours ain't lining up where it should on the distributor body. Also if you have an SVDA then it may time up 90 degrees different to a std or 009.
