Pan’s Starter Motor Saga

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by PanZer, May 28, 2020.

  1. ...continued...

    Thanks for all the advice so far!
    I’ve read about 7 different causes for my problem. I think the only things I haven’t done are test the motor on a bench (I can’t) and change the ignition wiring (possibly can if talked through the process). Oh, nor the potential welding of spanners technique - far too scared of that one!

    The done list:
    -10L of fresh fuel
    -Fully charged battery
    -Tried the car battery in it
    -Rocked it back & forth in gear
    -Cleaned up all electrical connections on the Starter Motor & Solenoid
    -Changed Gearbox to Chassis Earth Strap
    -Checked other Earths & wiring as best I can
    -Tapped, then thwacked the Starter Motor in various places from various angles...can’t do it with someone trying the ignition at the same time though
    -Slowly depressing accelerator then releasing before starting

    This is what it sounds like:

    https://ratwell.com/mirror/Muir/click.wav

    Apparently that means the Starter Motor has had it...seems i’m not lucky enough, like so many others on here, to at least get it going via the above list (even just to get it to a mechanics). That makes me wonder if it is indeed the Starter Motor! What do you reckon? Would it suddenly go like this...should I at least be able to fire it up with everything i’ve done if it was just a ‘deteriorating’ rather than dead Starter Motor?

    Only thing left I can do is get mechanics to test the CCA of the battery, to rule that out.

    I’ve not had Hot or Cold Start issues but it’s possible that on occasion it hasn’t started immediately (with the above linked clicking sound) but after a couple of attempts it worked just with the key. This might have been going on for a while.

    So, questions:
    •Time to definitely invest in a new Starter Motor?
    •If it is, can my local non-VW mechanics change it?

    Cheers folks
    Started a discussion because this might lead in to Starter Motor purchasing advice.

    ......•......
    www.transmission610.com
    (A free documentary)


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  2. Replace starter motor, solenoid is either sticking or gone.... you can replace starter motor yourself .... piece of cake. Or as a final test get someone, neighbour, milkman, postman, paper boy, mother-in-law to turn engine over while you hit it with a small hammer... if it starts (or at least engages) you know it’s the solenoid :thumbsup:
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2020
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  3. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    One thing, it's pointless hitting the thing without someone turning the key, or shorting to the spade at the same time.

    Two thing, short it! It might make you jump if it turns but you won't hurt yourself and that test the ignition switch and wiring.

    Basic tests, the best two, and you haven't done either. :)
     
    PanZer likes this.
  4. I tried to enlist the help of my mum (only person here) but she didn’t want to run me over! With me under a wheel hitting it (didn’t realise it was useless trying that with no-one on the ignition ). I did explain how it couldn’t happen with it not in gear, handbrake on and bricks around the wheels.

    Ok, so I should try the shorting it method. What exactly do I do, and what’s this I hear about things getting welded where they shouldn’t? lol

    I’m prepared to try both of the above and then actually call that Round One of testing


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  5. If when you turn the key you hear a click & nothing happens then it’s deffo the starter solenoid, get Mum to help & turn key while you hit it. I’ve done it laid in a puddle on a campsite driveway while Mrs ST turned engine over.... started first time.... make sure it’s in neutral, handbrake on & bricks around all 4 wheels if you have to.... it will be fine.... show this to Mum if necessary :)
    P.s. the engine doesn’t need to start as long as you hear the starter bendix being thrown in & engine turning over.... then you know for sure it’s the solenoid.... then you can replace starter motor... problem solved until next time
     
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  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    If when you turn the key you hear a click & nothing happens...
    It could also be
    Knackered battery even if fully charged,
    Faulty ignition switch.
    Faulty wiring.
    Just saying, no offence intended.
     
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  7. Brilliant. She will be shown this
    I forgot that we did actually try it, but very tentatively and briefly...I could hear her quivering from underneath!
    I’ll get a glass of wine ready to toast her heroics

    To clarify though, is it the motor or solenoid i’m to hit? It’s all a bit cramped down there.
    This time, for added quelling of nerves, i’ll get to it from under the engine rather than by the wheel


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  8. No offence taken. I’m here to learn, from a knowledge base just above zero!

    Yes, multiple possible problems. That’s my problem. I did try a different battery and can get amps on mine tested by a local mechanic. I’ve checked as much wiring as possible (fuses too) except for the ignition switch itself - I didn’t want to go pulling that apart (the easy part) from my zero knowledge starting point. I thought that since the dash and all other electrics were activated by the key it might not be that. Probably wrong.

    I’ve looked more in to the ‘shorting’ method. Vague descriptions abound. Seems sparks are guaranteed but welding avoided if I remove the screwdriver quickly. Folk have warned that its close to the fuel tank - hence hesitation. Electrocution avoided by using rubber handled screwdriver


    [​IMG]


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  9. Barry Haynes

    Barry Haynes I dance in leopard skin mankini’s

    And when @SweeneyTodd says hit it with a small hammer he doesn't mean the mother-in-law:eek:
     
  10. Ha ha i’d have to borrow one of those too...though the ones available are more battle axes and less wieldy under the van


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  11. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Your pic above... that's not what I would do, I'd short between the post with all the wires and the spade which neatly bypasses all the switch wiring, a good test for the switch and associated wiring.
     
    nicktuft and PIE like this.
  12. Ok. Great! Thanks.
    Does this pic (mine this time) represent what you are saying?
    I assume all wires are left in place during this.
    [​IMG]


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  13. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Yes and yes.
     
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  14. hit the outer case of the starter motor it make take more than one quick sharp rap plus listen to Zed he knows his stuff
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2020
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  15. Don’t do that! All it will do is make the starter motor turn without engaging in the flywheel (and will likely weld the screw driver to the terminals). As above, short the main stud to the small solenoid tab.

    Only 12V - you won’t electrocute yourself, so gloves not necessary ;)
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2020
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  16. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Refitting a starter is fairly easy with a 17mm ratchet ring spanner for the nut that goes on the D bolt on a T1 engine , and 17mm socket om a extension for the other bolt. And a spanner for the battery lead nut.

    Just need to take out the air cleaner to reach round the fan housing on a T1 or just reach across on a T4 to the D bolt (top fixing on the starter) nut.

    Ideally you change the bushing in the bell housing , for that you need a ?? m10 thread tap to grip the old one and pull it out.

    Its not a big job, not forgetting disconnect the battery..
     
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  17. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    The bottom one is 15mm IIRC which sadly I think I do. :(
     
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  18. So I finally got around to trying to start it again. No success but maybe some more information to help solve the problem.

    Battery was on charge over night.

    1. Thwacking Starter Motor:
    •Did this, with an adjustable spanner, as my mum tried turning it over, at the same time.
    -Several attempts and it seemingly did zip diddly. Not even a discernible change in any noises.

    2. Bridging electrical points:
    •As suggested I connected the cluster to the spade.
    -A few sparks and there was actually a whirring noise that, to me, sounded like a what I would think was a flat battery.
    —Several attempts and the whirring got less pronounced.

    So, what do we reckon mighty TLB encyclopaedia of knowledge?

    Oh, and it wasn’t as scary as I thought it might be
     
  19. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    It should whirr for several minutes on a good battery, by which time you probably should stop.

    If its dying away in the first few seconds when it is not engaged its most likely a dead battery.

    .Can you check the battery voltage it could be a shorted cell on a dead battery causing this .

    After a night on charge you should see 12 7 to 14 volts, higher the sooner you try after charging..

    While its on charge , up to about 14.5 volts ..if its a cheapy mains charger and you see 17 volts the battery is junk.
    A smart charger will not even bother.
     
  20. Just checked and the battery voltage was 12.73.
    Connected to the charger it reads 13.2 but seems to be rising (volts also jump around a bit so I don’t know if that’s ‘normal’ whilst charging).

    Weeks ago I tried the car battery in the camper and that didn’t do anything - just the clicking noise i’m getting with this one.
    Cheers


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