I've been using a 'standard' starter motor for over 7 years with a 1.6 audi 80 engine with no problems at all which i'm sure will have higher compression than an air cooled motor. I could understand going for the expensive ones with a diesel engine.
I would take a punt on the GSF/VeeWee replacement starter, as your starter bushing looks like it isnt the problem, so there may be little benefit in forking out for a bushless starter.. as you have to remove the old bushing anyway.. I have had no trouble with mine since about 2012. Its a lot cheaper than the others, you buy an M12 tap to extract the old starter bushing. https://www.veewee.co.uk/901vg0070?vehicle=VW-Camper 68 -79 Its an off the shelf part in most GSF stores too.
Wow, just looked at the date I did this, 2010! But I guess it hasn't moved the last 3 years so the 7 year use is still valid
I have 2.4l with high cylinder pressure and a stock starter. No problems here either. BTW taking the starter on and off should be a 15 minute job. You'll find it easier next time...if there is a next time.
It was about 15mins...but 15 days to muster the courage to do something mechanical! ha ha Glad to have done it though - with everyone’s help. I’m hoping that by spending big now i’ll reduce the necessity to do it again for a long while. Not so much because of the task itself, but when i’m living in it with no facilities, minimal tools and no postal address absolutely everything is going to be 10x harder and longer, with many associated ramifications. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Interesting. A 4th option then. At £200 less than a Wosp (half that of a Powerlite) I cant justify their prices. Really I was thinking that at twice the power the High Torque ones have (plus reliability) that over their lifetime the price difference would eventually pay for itself compared to something in the region of £150. I assume your suggestion isn’t the kind that many report end up in the bin after 2 weeks - that’s a scenario I definitely want to avoid. Was also thinking that the High Torque ones eliminate hot/cold start issues, but that’s just an uninformed guess on my part. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As my 7 year old granddaughter said to me "Grandad this is technically child abuse" But she did get that nut on and a few turns Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
I’ll be needing a little hand (literally) to put a new one on! Name and address please Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When I fitted my microsquirt FI it needs to see a certain rpm at the starter to trigger ECU . A standard tired old Bosch and a new refurbed one couldn’t do this . If I remember I paid £210 for the wosp but it wasn’t from VW H . You would need a hot start relay regardless of startermotor if your having those wiring problems but that’s how modern cars work anyway .. I’d go with 77westy recommendation unless you shop around for the wosp ...
I’d clean all the rot off, rustproof and paint. I have 2.3l with 9.0:1 CR and an original Bosch starter, no problems yet but when it does conk out, I’ll replace it with a PowerLite. I’ve had a PowerLite on a 3.9l V8 with 9.5:1 CR in my MGB for years without any problems.
The hot start relay helps the ignition switch. Fitting a different starter may make the hot start better or worse, depending on the smaller or larger current drawn through the starter solenoid.
@lhu1281... good to know the reason you opted for a Wosp. I looked up your ECU (not on my list of things for a while as I just got a 123 Distributor +Tune, if they achieve similar things). Only other supplier of your Wosp is selling them at £333 now. @77Westy...yes, dealing with the whole of the underneath is on the list - a list I seem remarkably slow at getting through. Hoping to do that over winter, but don’t know if it’s possible without ramps, pit or lift etc. Anyway, that’s a future thread. I believe you previously recommended the following Powerlite: •RAC423 High Torque Starter Motor @ £209.53 https://www.powerlite-units.com/starters/rac423.html Do you know what the difference is between that one and the following? JK stock the 525 but not the 423 (which only Powerlite seem to have): •RAC525 High Torque Starter Motor @ £195 -VW Transporter T2 (1.6 & 1.7cc 1970-75) https://www.powerlite-units.com/rac525.html https://www.justkampers.com/rac525-...kn4dE4ppUZWGZdd-5R27bNrI0X0qY7egaAhqnEALw_wcB @mikedjames...good know about the relay situation. I’ve not had issues in that regard yet so was thinking it was motor related rather than wiring. Glad to be educated You previously stated that my old motor looked a recent addition. I’ve only done a couple of 1000 miles and the PO only did a few more thousand than that, so i’ve no idea how old it is. I thought the QR Code on it made it look modern, but on googling they have been around since the mid ‘90s! I honestly only heard of them a few years ago Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just ordered the Powerlite RAC525. Contacted Powerlite to ascertain the difference between the 525 & 423 and apparently it’s down to the “...throw distance...”. Sent them an image of the one i’m replacing and all the identifying numbers. New one arrives Thursday. Guess that means I have a Bosch Starter Motor with Brazilian solenoid, that isn’t working well, to sell on if anyone is interested? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
In that case I would not skimp on tools...you arent travelling light you are travelling prepared. Apart from the big jack, everything I need to take the engine out is in toolboxes under the back seat. If I had to, if I found some wood, I could use the scissors and bottle jack stored under the passenger seat to lower the engine. Go on a T2D boot camp before setting off to live in your bus. It will save you money and give confidence.
A T2D boot camp sounds like exactly what I should do. Think I saw one specifically for engines. I’ll have a google search. Really, if i’d ever envisaged having to do so much to mine just to get going with it, I should have done something like that first! It’s been more a continual case of “Phew, managed to sort that...surely nothing else can go wrong!” Thankfully all you guys are here to guide me Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sorry, only just seen this. As you have discovered the difference between the RAC525 and the RAC423 is the bus gearbox type and throw of the starter pinion gear.
Personally I think finding out about things as they break is more than enough to get spannering and build confidence. I don't think you're alone doing two weeks thinking before 15 minutes work, I do it all the time.
Learning ‘on the go’ was the plan (preferably staying one step ahead). I guess it’s just taking me longer to actually get going! If this had happened next year, when i’m finished (said that las year though), I don’t think it would’ve phased me as much - really it’s just a day of research, troubleshooting and a few hours work doing the swap. Apparently one simply puts the new motor in place of the old. The Bush has me querying: •Remove the Bush? •Replace the Bush? I thought, like the Wosp, the Powerlite has no need for the Bush. Pretty sure I read it should be removed but confirmation of this would be great. Also, the gunk on the inside. Should I clean it all out (re lubricate with something)? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I wouldn't bother cleaning, what you see is a tiny bit of the inside of the bell housing and you won't be cleaning it all. If your starter is self supporting, not needing the bush, it won't project as far as the bush hole so I see no reason to hoik the old one out. If you leave it where it is, in a year and one minute when your new one claps out you'll be able to refit the old one.
