Have you checked, and possibly remade your earth connections? Take off the ground lead form the battery, give the terminals and the point were its attached to the body a good clean up and refit. Same with the gearbox earth strap.
Battery earth should be good. Connections are tight and on clean corrosion free metal: Changed the gearbox earth strap too: Cleaned up all the Starter Motor connections: Have made sure connections on the Starter Coil are at least in place (and spark plug leads), but didn’t want to go messing around with that until instructed to do so Thing is, I can do all of the above but not necessarily properly because i’ve no experience of mechanics. Thanks though Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I tried the car one in a while ago. Not sure how good it is (Halfords with only CCA of 550 whereas the one in the camper is 640a) Hmmm getting it close to the car is tricky. It’s in the garage with no roof on, tight squeeze plus gravel drive - I can see myself pushing it out with a pinky finger then never getting it back in again with mustered muscle it wouldn’t be a problem, but hoping to get this problem diagnosed and sorted before lockdown totally ends. Thanks though Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The Bosch S4 has a CCA of 410 amps, as recommended for starting a 1600, so both your batteries are more than enough. The battery voltage seems good. Your starter looks so clean it has been replaced recently - copper wire goes dull when it is weathered. So its quite likely just to be a recon starter that is bad. It happens. By breaking the problem down you have proved that it is not wiring. You can buy a little battery tester for about £20-£25 on eBay. It is glove box sized. My starter motor was changed for the cheapest GSF recon 6 years ago and it has been perfect. Other people swap starters for more expensive recon ones, and have to swap again immediately because they are duff. In the end I changed the ignition switch as well because it failed to even click sometimes.
Thanks for the guidance Voltage does seem good (now at 12.85v having been off the charger over night) and interesting to know about the standard CCA - still might get mechanics to check amps on the battery, just to completely isolate that as an issue. Just because even on a google search I can’t find the battery (Powerstart P100) so it might not be a very good one. Glad to hear that the wiring should be ok. My Starter Motor doesn’t look ancient so you are probably right in that it’s just a duff recon one. I have read how some folk have had to change them just days after fitting Forgot to add the short video of what I did: Doesn’t include the ‘bashing’ part as that did nothing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, 12.85v after charging it over night. Seems to have settled on that after dropping from 13.23v when I disconnected from charger. All it had done was 20secs worth of trying to start the camper having been fully charged prior (I assume overnight should do it ‘normally’ so i’ll try 24hrs). But the car battery didn’t work either - which also is likely rubbish Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Even more confused! Seems my battery is absolutely fine. Just put it in the car and it fired up no worries on 12.85v. Prior to that test I did the following: •Battery was charged @ 12.9v -In the camper I got a ‘whirring’ sound but it didn’t fire up -Attached charger to battery but it made no difference —With no ‘click’ sound now i’m assuming the Starter Motor has been successfully freed •Car battery in camper @ 12.4v -Same as above...’whirr’ no ‘click’ -Attaching battery charger made no difference —Put car battery back in Mondeo and it fired up no worries even though it was down to 12.35v Seems on trying to starter my camper, only for a few seconds a couple of times, it sucks 0.5v out of a battery. So if it’s not the battery and not the starter motor, and ‘shorting’ the solenoid got it ‘whirring’, what am I looking for here? Cheers guys. I’ve no clue what to do next Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
my money is a knackered ignition switch ,,,, i had very similar and fitted a hot start relay but that still didn`t solve issue until i found the ignition switch cracked and knackered ….
Ok. Thanks. I’ll try and find a thread for that Never ventured in to the ignition switch before, for fear of messing things up and it not starting - no fear now If the battery is fine then the power just isn’t getting from it to the ignition system...I assume. Cleaned up connection points i’m aware of already but nothing to do with the actual switch itself. It has been wobbly in past. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ok, long delay in getting around to this but i’ve done Phase 2 of testing. •Battery: Mechanic checked it (volts & amps) and said it’s absolutely fine. Given that it started the Mondeo i’m ruling it out as the issue. •Solenoid Shorting: That got things whirring rather than clicking (video previously uploaded), so I think that rules out some wiring issues. -I’d previously managed to free up the motor by bashing and rocking the Bay •Connecting Solenoid to Battery +: This got me the clicking again, as did ignition key (didn’t read anywhere that the key has to be turned at the same time as making the connection). -Guessing the motor has once more gotten stuck So i’m thinking I need a new Starter Motor. I’ve read several threads on removing it and I really can’t see how I can get to that tricky D Bolt. I can’t even get the tinware off at the back of the engine. Is that what people are doing on a Type 1 engine? I’ve got a Carb in the way on the RHS. There are no videos or even photos I can find depicting the process. I hate fiddly things...especially when I can’t even see what i’m doing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
'Whirring' as in engine turning over or starter spinning but not engaging? Did you have the ignition on. If not then it won't start as there's no power to the coil.
Yep. Could try bypassing the starter part of the ignition switch with a non-latching switch of a suitable current rating.
Just reach around the fan housing with a 17mm ring spanner and pray that it wasn't tightened by a gorilla. If it was, bodge an extension for your spanner.
Ahh, maybe I was looking at the wrong nut (from underneath), which seemed to be behind the tinware behind what I thought was the fan housing. I’ll have another look. Thanks. Oh, and pray for no previous gorilla mechanics Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You may have to get the carburettor off on the RHS to reach round and get leverage. I like using a 17mm ratchet ring spanner on the D bolt nut as you only have to get the spanner on there once, then flap the end up and down.. Try not to drop the nut and washer, and check around TLB for the starter bushing replacement and the keeping the D bolt in place when putting it back..
Assuming that’s the little blighter I have managed to loosen it! Half expecting a nylock nut, with loctite...and plumbers tape (just for good measure) I was pleasantly surprised it loosened fairly readily. Had to remove the Kadron filter first. I understand why people said “articulated wrists” were require. I want to take it off so the local mechanic can test it - that would be the final judgement. Also read that some poor guy ordered the right starter for his engine but the gearbox had been changed, so it didn’t fit. Figure that with the thing off a photo of it will lead to an easy identification by the big brains on TLB Thanks for your patients everyone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You read my mind I’ll take it fully out when I recover from my bout of bravery in the noisy box. I can see why putting it on might be harder than taking it off. Magnets at the ready. I couldn’t get the ratchet behind the fan housing...might try again. Yes, I’ve read about various means of wedging the D - i’ll wear a mask to muffle my profanity. As for the bush, i’m opting for either a Powerlite or Wosp, which I believe eliminates the necessity of the bush...and having to go through all this again any time soon. As with everything else, doing it first time is a nightmare...the next time is easy. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Definitively the Starter Motor is not up to the task. Mechanic tested it and it spun, but very quickly wound down - which was much like what I experienced when trying the various advised troubleshooting techniques. It seems to be a reconditioned Bosch with a Brazilian Solenoid: So, it’s big decision time. I’ve narrowed down the choice to 3 of Interest. My priorities are reliability, longevity & minimal maintenance: -I’ve got a late Type 1 engine that has been bored out to 1950cc with Twin Kadron Carbs in a March ‘75 Bay. -No idea if the gearbox has been changed but hopefully the photos give folk of what I used to have, so I make sure I get the right replacement. •Wosp High Torque Starter Motor LMS479 @ £285 (Baywindow 1975 - 1979) @lhu1281 recommends this one. -CW direction (GSF standard one says CCW, so that’s confused me) -Number of Teeth unknown —Not in Stock stock right now https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/ac911003-wosp-high-torque-starter-motor.html •PowerLite RAC423 High Torque Starter Motor @ £209.53 -Recommended by @77Westy -9 teeth -VW Transporter (no year or engine size stated) https://www.powerlite-units.com/starters/rac423.html •Powerlite RAC525 High Torque Starter Motor @ £195 -VW Transporter T2 (1.6 & 1.7cc 1970-75) -9 teeth —This one gets recommended on a shop search https://www.justkampers.com/rac525-...kn4dE4ppUZWGZdd-5R27bNrI0X0qY7egaAhqnEALw_wcB Is the Wosp worth the extra £ & waiting for? I know these 3 eliminate the need for the bush, but do they also eliminate the need for Hot or Cold Start Relays? Finally, as I’ll no doubt be waiting a while, is there anything I should do with what can be seen here... Clean inside with gunkoff, or leave it be? Cover it in tinfoil (not to stop alien communications, but creepy crawlies and dust getting in)? Thanks everyone. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
