looking at this photo, anyone know the best way to remove this back panel. It is the outer skin of the engine hatch hinge panel where the engine lid hinges on. The back looks good apart from some holes so I think I can leave it in and repair it. The inner strengthener will need to be replaced as it is too rusty. just don't know it will come out with minimal damage to the side panels
What are you replacing it with? Do you have a body cut to weld in? I'd be tempted to just get a better door (although I'm guessing you have the same problem as you've had with the rest of the resto in that you don't have easy access to donor panels).
https://www.justkampers.com.au/2378...rear-for-t2-bay-1971-1976.html?fee=1&fep=3092 It even has the captive nuts. Carefully cut off the old one in pieces
Here's my engine lid hinge panel being replaced for reference: https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/a-restoration-for-iris.53455/page-46#post-1385274
@JamesLey sorry I think you miss under stood sorry, The door is perfect. it is the outer skin of the strengthen. @Zed yes this is the correct one thanks just want to remove the old one with minimal damage. (as you know I used to tend to damage surrounding metal but not any more since i fell like my skills have improved of isolating the pieces to remove.) @JamesLey If you ever made a book of your restoration process it will be the best book. better then the haynes.
This is the bible on restoring these buses: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Volkswagen-Bay-Transporter-Restoration-Manual/dp/B016WWVLAW
I had a couple of rules when I restored buses. Have the replacement part in your hand before you start cutting. Many advantages here - You know you can get one and you know what it consists of. Things like this hinge panel - cut out the easy central part so you can see inside and not cut anything by mistake then pick the rest out bit by bit taking care of the surrounding parts. I'd regularly for instance be the second person replacing a rear lower corner and find the last guy had cut through the pillar behind with a fat grinding disc and just left it. Here's one! I guess that barely matters when your corner panel is also covering this...
Looking at the back, it is full of rust. The issue is fixing this will involve replacing the panels. #The top looks fine #The the lower outer valiance looks fine. #Engine lid hinge panel outer skin will need to be replaced and some minor repair to the middle of the inner panel. #Left side corner has had accident damage until bellow the bulge and lip is rusted at the bottom corner of the tailgate. #Right side has rust hole in front of the lower D pillar and rust at the lip at the lower corner of the tailgate. Not sure if I should replace both corners full way to top or half way or buy the corner with the tail light small panel. @JamesLey , i know you replaced the full panels however I have a window van and don't know if doable or if anyone else has any opinion or what you think I should do.
I wouldn't use the full panel if you don't need to. I only did one full corner on mine as it was rusting top and bottom, the other corner wasn't as bad and just got repaired with a cut from the smaller repair panel: https://www.alanhschofield.com/ourparts/prod_3696258-Rear-Corner-680mm-Left-7279-211813357RT.html
Thanks James, looking at mine do you think I may be better off keeping the right corner and only cutting out and patching in a small section for the bottom and for the top around the lip. With the left do I just replace it and make a section to extend it to the lip only?
Look on the inside and see if it has had a rear corner repair previously that might have covered horrors like I pictured above. You can cut these things off a little at a time until you have good structure behind. If that needs repairing it will guide you to how much panel to remove.
Did some work on the corner strengthener today. I added the return corner strip on the a pillar. And extended the strengthener. The strengthener overlaps the corner piece I have made up as it did originally.
cut the rear corner strengthener out and cut out the rust on the N/S B pillar. I will need to change the inner and middle sill whilst I am at it. I staggered all the cuts on the B Pillar so I can weld everything back in properly.
You do live and learn. For instance - will I be able to get a tool in to tidy the weld better if I cut here rather than there. If I start a cut here will I even be able to get the grinder in deep enough or would some odd angle work better. It's endless, a lot more thought and planning goes into resto than you realise when you start.
Exactly you are 100% right. I have learned from my experience in doing this and thought of you and did plan out how to do the cuts so I can get the welder in and the grinder. Thankyou.
I had some time today and removed the floor in one major piece however I left the the bit of floor that goes under under the petrol tank section. I removed the N/S sill and long sill rear wheel arch.
To remove the sill, I had to sacrifice the sill as drilling out the plug welds would off damaged the to hat ends as there are three spot welds on each side and they are too close to the end to put the spot weld drill bit/remover on it. I had to cut a square in the sill around the top hat. I have still the remains of the spot welds on the large panel and thee sections one the three jacking points to remove. Also I have the section of floor to cut out that goes under the petrol tank which I am not sure how to take out.